Day 10: Saturday, August 17, 2013
Location: All but the final 1.1 miles of the Connecting Route between John Muir Park Segment, and the Marquette/Waushara County Line, Marquette County, WI and John Muir Park Segment, Marquette County, WI
We woke up in the morning comparatively refreshed, and drove both vehicles to Dakota Ct where we started the day before. (Dakota COURT, that is, not Dakota Ave, not Dakota Drive, not Dakota Circle, boulevard or any other variation. Someone really needs a broader outlook on life.) We dropped the van and went about five miles down the road to the Krentz Cemetery on 7th Ct. There was some long discussion about whether we should bike back to the van, as planned, or reverse the situation and bike the other direction. One thing we had learned is that it’s easier to bike downhill than uphill. I had the impression that we would be going up a long uphill segment. Reversing course would have cost us about 25 minutes of driving time, one-way, and another 15 extra minutes when we were done reorienting ourselves to our southward journey, and so in the end we decided to do it south to north the way we were. I think the hill was a phantom, because when we got back to the van, we both said, ‘Where was the hill?’ Lesson learned. Unless it’s really obvious, just go with it.
The biking was actually really pleasant. We were serenaded by Sandhill Cranes the entire ride, and it was a gently rolling countryside, filled with oak, hickory and maple, and other northern hardwood forest standards. Another five miles south, we rode the bikes from Elk Lane (Right by Elk Drive, North Elk Drive and South Elk drive) up 8th Dr to Elk Ave (I’m not kidding) and up 6th Dr until we got to CTH J. CTH J is just flat-out dangerous for bicycles. We tried to ride it but speeding cars, flying gravel, and our very lives kept flashing in front of our eyes, so we turned off to the safety of Old J and 7th Ct where the most dangerous thing we faced was a tractor and someone’s farm dog. We crossed J and rode up E/7th Court back to the Prius. Once again, I’d have to say the trip was beautiful. The fields and trees and red-painted barns really make you feel like you’ve found Wisconsin.
South again to Packwaukee, where we stopped for a burger and a beer. Well – Theresa had a beer, I had a diet Pepsi. I can’t say much for Packwaukee as far as restaurants go, but the burger at the bar wasn’t bad at all. A charming ride through town followed, then up CTH C, then CTH ZZ (aka 9th Ave) a bump over on Ember Drive and then half a mile north on 8th Drive to the waiting van. What’s to say? The day was lovely, but Theresa’s new bicycle had the same problem as the old one – too-hard seat. It was better than the original seat on the previous bike, but we decided we’d put the comfy seat on when we got back home.
Just south of Packwaukee is Buffalo Lake, which because of the amazingly dry season was more like Buffalo mud flats. Hundreds of White Egrets dotted the mud as far as the eye could see, but there sure wasn’t much water to be had. We drove south and parked at John Muir Memorial County Park, where exists the ONLY hiking segment in all of Marquette County. Because it was relatively hot, and it was about 1:30 in the afternoon, we decided we’d get out of the sun (biking) and walk the trail in the shade before we biked back to the car. In theory it was a good idea, but much of the trail was in the sun anyway, so we didn’t exactly escape the heat. The trail was well-marked and fairly easy walking, but it was too hot to enjoy, and we were happy to have it over with when we were done. We didn’t see any of the pitcher plants or the poison sumac as advertised, but we did see the biggest blueberry patch either of us have ever enjoyed picking through. Back at the van, we got the bikes out, and rode north again to Packwaukee, another relatively pleasant ride on seldom-driven roads, but there was a long uphill stint on CTH D just before rounding the bend towards Packwaukee. It was 4:30 pm and the heat of the day was finally at its peak in the low 80’s. Oh well – a long downhill slide into town and we were back at the Prius.
Here’s the problem. There was some daylight left, but Theresa was utterly spent, and we were both too grungy for words in places better left unmentioned. We were not far from Portage, so we drove south looking for a place where we could shower, bathe, or at least wash up a lot. When we got to the Wisconsin River, we realized just how dry it has been lately, because the river was a trickle, and there was no privacy there anyway. We found no parks with water, and when we went to the fairgrounds (which show showers on the Atlas map) we found everything shut down completely. We found the showers, but they were locked.
Desperate times call for desperate measures. Like following elephants to the mud hole, I started looking for ANY source of water. Out of the corner of my eye, I spotted a car wash. I know what you’re thinking, and no, we didn’t walk through the car wash. Don’t get me wrong. It crossed my mind. But I figured where there’s a car wash there’s water somewhere, and then I spotted it! Between the car wash bays was a sign that said, ‘Pet Wash’. Before you jump too far ahead, or start judging – what would you do if you were two-day grungy and had no access to a shower? Go to a motel and ask how much they would charge for a shower with no overnight stay? Come back to the river at night and hope no one was watching? Yeah, we thought of those too, but in the end, the pet wash seemed like a fine option. Just needed quarters. Which we didn’t have. And the Change machine was busted. Back to the van, I scratched up $2.25 in quarters, and that bought us exactly four minutes of water. It’s amazing what two people can accomplish in 4 minutes or less.
We bought A&W Root Beer at a drive-up, then drove back north. I had a pretty good idea how I wanted to finish the day. There is a point just south of John Muir Memorial County Park where you crest a hill. We parked the van there, and then basically coasted about ¾ of a mile downhill to the park and the Prius. Best piece of biking we did all day. I mentioned before there were Sandhill Cranes around. We heard them ALL DAY, saw them in fields, saw them fly overhead – it was wonderful.
We drove south again along the connecting route looking for a place to camp in the van. We found it just north of Rainbow Road along 12th Ave. Not the prettiest place around, but good and private, and quiet as the forest. Before we called it a night, we walked hand-in-hand a little over a mile to the van, then drove wearily back to the parking area to sleep. Not bad – 24.5 miles of biking and 3.7 miles of hiking for the day. Running total: 79.7 miles of trail covered; 7.6 miles ‘extra’ hiking/biking. End of Day 10.
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