Sunday, September 1, 2019

Day 37: Hartman Creek Segment (Part 1), Waupaca River Segment (Part 2), Portage and Waupaca County

Day 37: Sunday September 1st, 2019

Location 1Northern half of the Hartman Creek Segment, Portage and Waupaca Counties, between Windfeldt Road and Hwy 54
3.0 miles of trail covered

We got a very late start today due to a necessary trip to Appleton to sell a vacuum cleaner. You wouldn't think such a trip was necessary, but we did get $280 for the vacuum, so we made the trip. Cutting out all mention of postulating, planning and plotting, we decided to hike the Hartman Creek segment west of Waupaca, which is inside the boundaries of Hartman Creek State Park and dances across the county line border between Waupaca County to the east and Portage county to the west. 

It should be noted that our goal for the day was to hike not only the top of Hartman Creek Segment but also to knock off the 0.8 mile section at the very bottom of the Waupaca River Segment (see below), so we parked our target vehicle at the farmer's field entrance on Townline Rd, making sure to park well out of the way in case the farmer wanted to get through to his field with those huge tractors. Then we drove into the State Park and down to the end of Windfeldt Road where the permanent gate separates it from 6th Avenue, making both a dead end. This is where we started our day, at roughly 3:00, with a 0.2 mile walk along the road to get to the IAT. It was about 72 degrees, and there were some bugs, but not too bad.
Note the number of downed trees

Please note that it would have been possible to park on the 6th Ave side of the gate, so as to access this point without paying State Park Fees, if that's important to you.

The hike itself is absolutely idyllic. This is a well-used and well-loved section of trail, frequented by many a non-IAT hiker. Broad, easy, single-track hiking along a well-marked and unambiguous trail makes for easy hiking and a very pleasant experience. For those of you following older IAT Maps, like the 2014 set, there has been a complete re-route through the section, and the trail is significantly off from what the older maps and satellite maps show, if you're following along with your phone as you hike. 

Where we started, the trail cut up and left, into Portage county, where it stayed until just before it reaches Edminster Road to the north. The trail first takes an easy rise and fall before taking slow climb up one side of a domed hill about two tenths of a mile in. It was already easy to see the large number of trees that had been felled by the storms that roared through in July of 2019, and the amount of work that was obviously needed to clear the trail. It would only get worse as we walked north.

Before topping that first hill, the trail cuts back to the northeast and across a saddle then zigs back the other way before finally topping out on a small hill providing a nice view which would only be better after the leaves fall. Along this small section we encountered the massive erratic mentioned in the guidebook, a signature feature along this section. Here I had my sword-in-the-stone moment, and we moved on. 
You would have to zoom in a LOT, but there is a little wooden sword in my hand that was stuck into the stone by someone with a sense of humor.

There was a moment when we crossed from loamy, silty soil, where the trees were tall and the under-story was relatively inconsequential to the sandy soils where taller trees were less plentiful and suddenly there was more low-lying vegetation with scrub oaks and other sand-loving species abundant. I didn't notice it as a literal line, but once the trail turned sandy, it was a permanent change. That is one of the characteristics of pitted outwash from the glaciers, and this part of Wisconsin is lovingly or loathingly referred to as 'sandland'. It was interesting to walk across the edge of this region and see the differences up close.


A small cluster of six large white pines


Standing atop one of the biggest Aspen trees I have ever seen, sadly toppled by recent storms




As we continued north, there was a section that ran rather deliberately uphill, and here we were passed by a lone hiker on an out-and-back, who thought Joplin the wonderdog was just delightful. We would see her again a short while later as she came back the other way. Finally, we reached the top of the ridge and bent east again, nearly cresting the top of a long jutting arm, before making our way north to Edminster Road. Along this section we passed a whole family of hikers with their own dog, and another pair of 'hikers' at the parking area by Edminster Rd. I put 'hikers' in quotes, because they were clearly inexperienced, weren't dressed properly, had no beverage with them, were literally afraid of 'deet', and took off walking along a part of the trail that wasn't marked. I suppose they lived through the day. I hope they get a little more experience before they decide to conquer Montana. Rescuing people like that gets expensive.

So this is where we left the state park, crossed the road and headed into Waupaca County and less busy trail to the north. The first thing we encountered was a set of log blocks where we sat down and enjoyed our trail meal. The trail ran almost at grade downhill until we reached Allen Creek, which was a slightly hazardous crossing through rocks and mud, ultimately made possible only by the presence of a bridge across the creek. We thank the trail gods who made this bridge and carried those many rocks to create that crossing. 

The area immediately across the creek was wide open due to recent logging, and lacked trail markers, but there was no other route available, and when we reached the trees the blazes started up again. Up and across three more hills, we finally turned north and made our way to the edge of a tilled field where flocks of geese and sandhill cranes serenaded our way to Hwy 54 and the designated parking area where our car wasn't waiting for us. It was the end of this segment, however, so we marked our progress here. It was about 6:00, and we had traveled about three beautiful miles of trail. 

Running total: 264.9 miles of trail covered; 29.2 miles ‘extra’ hiking/biking. 

Location 2Southern end of the Waupaca Segment, Waupaca County, between Townline Road and Hwy 54
0.8 miles of trail covered

The Waupaca River segment is a combination of small connecting route pieces and bits of trail. We covered much of it in May of 2015, but had about 2.8 miles left, including about 3/4 of a mile of actual trail and 2 miles of road. We didn't get the road covered today, but we did complete the trail portion. Starting at Hwy 54 where we had just ended the Hartman Creek walk for the day, we started north along this elbow of trail along the edge of the farmed land on both sides, but still through what felt like actual woods. With very little topography, the trail cuts along and through very old oak trees, makes a 90 degree bend and continues in this way until it reaches Townline Road about a half-mile later. There is little of note to share, except to say that here, too, there was evidence of the recent storms, and the hard work of trail volunteers who came through afterwards with chainsaws to make it passable again. We are in their debt.


We reached our car about 6:30, which was definitely the end of our hiking for the day. Even if there was daylight left, we were starting to feel a little worn out. We all need to get in better shape. 

Of interest: At Townline Road, at the Trail Sign, there is an expansive patch of poison ivy, which is the ONLY poison ivy we saw anywhere along the trail today. Breaking from tradition, we opted not to touch this particular sign to end our day.

Running total: 265.7 miles of trail covered; 29.2 miles ‘extra’ hiking/biking. End of Day 37.
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